GRAND CENTRAL OYSTER BAR & RESTAURANT
Within the halls of its namesake, The Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant (GCOBR) today incorporates elements of modernity into its history. As we walked through the double doors of the famous Oyster Bar, absorbing its charm and architectural marvels, executive Chef Sandy Ingber gave a warm welcome. He carefully explained the dishes his team had prepared for us, and introduced us to the restaurant’s history.
When it opened in 1913, it was a popular joint for rail commuters and tourists alike, who enjoyed taking a moment to sit still and enjoy the station’s beautiful architecture as they dined. But as roads improved and rail passengers had less time to explore the station, traffic to GCOBR declined. Eventually the restaurant fell into disrepair, but in 1974 the MTA commissioned well-known restaurateur Jerome Brody to reimagine the space. Brody recognized potential under accumulated wear. Renovations of the space and the menu concept gave the GCOBR a second lease on life. The century-old institution’s beautiful Guastavino tile ceiling, long counters, and plaid tablecloths are still reminiscent of a bygone era, but these days, the menu condenses a macro seafood ecosystem into a micro environment - seven seas in the belly of Grand Central.
After a brief history lesson, Chef Ingber embarked on a bivalve crash course. We learned about the different flavor profiles for which regions are known, the role habitat temperature plays in flavor, and how oysters are farmed today. The lore that one should only eat oysters in “R” months was debunked--as Chef Ingber explained, shipping technology is now so advanced that in warmer months, shellfish restaurants simply import oysters from Southern Hemisphere shores like New Zealand's.
To get the best imports and the freshest catch, Chef Ingber has woken up every morning for 26 years at 2:30am and selected from the Fulton Street Fish Market. He puts the restaurant's emphasis on freshness you can taste. The raw bar boasts between twenty and thirty choices of Bivalves, some from the Long Island Sound, others imported from far reaches of the globe. We tasted Blue Point Oysters harvested from the restaurant’s own plot in the Long Island Sound--wonderfully briny and refreshing. Each once was a delicious mouthful of fresh ocean flavor, complemented by a kick from the accompanying mignonette or cocktail sauce. Popular among the group were the Island Creek Oysters (Duxbury, Massachusetts) and Kusshi Oysters (British Columbia).
Chef Ingber prepared classic dishes that showcase diversity of preparation methods. A mainstay of the menu since 1913, the famous Oyster Pan Roast blends clam juice, butter, spices, cream, and oysters into an exquisitely rich stew. Appetizers such as Oysters Rockefeller, an oyster covered with creamed spinach and hollandaise sauce broiled until crisp, and Clams Casino, a fusion of clams and bacon, showed us immense breadth of skill. As our members said, we can’t wait to return next time life finds us fresh off a train at Grand Central.